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Like other Maine lobster companies, Nadeau's business is ticking up because Chinese lobster eaters are looking abroad to revive old traditions in new ways. Spiny lobsters used to abound in the South China Sea, but overfishing has destroyed their Chinese habitat and driven up prices. Even though they've logged more air miles, US lobsters are a bargain in China.

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"Our Maine lobsters are filling the middle-class void," Nadeau says. "We're working around the clock to get lobsters into China for the holiday."

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Maine lobster offer softer meat and a finer flavour than their spiny cousins and allow Chinese consumers to return to old recipes - lobster is often steamed and dipped in wasabi and soy sauce, or eaten with noodles in a garlic sauce.

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Maine lobster is often called "Boston Lobster" on Chinese menus. Nadeau, a native Mainer, says she doesn't mind being upstaged by her metropolitan neighbour to the south - as long as the orders keep coming in.

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Aside from providing the perfect combination of flavour, value and US cachet, Nadeau says that Maine lobster - possibly the most typically New England food after clam chowder - has one decisive advantage in China.

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"They like ours because they look like a dragon," she adds.¡u¥L­Ì³ßÅw§Ú­Ìªº¡]²£«~¡^¡A¦]¬°¥¦­Ì¬Ý°_¨Ó¹³¤@±øÀs¡C¡v¦o¸É¥R¡C

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